How do I wash a car with a ceramic coating?

Quick answer: Rinse the car off, wash with a coating-safe shampoo and a clean mitt, rinse again, dry with a decent microfibre. Skip the brush wash, the cheap pound-fiver, and the dirty drying towel. Most of the time you will wash a coated car less often than you used to -- the coating does most of the work.

Washing a car can be as simple or as complicated as you want to make it. We assume our customers want to keep it simple and take advantage of the fact that a ceramic coating makes a car easier to clean and easier to keep clean.

How much easier? We had a Jaguar customer come back about four months after we'd coated his car, just to show it off. When we asked whether he was finding it easier to wash, he thought for a moment and admitted he had not actually washed it yet -- the coating, plus the way he was using the car, had kept it clean enough on its own that four months in he had not needed to. He is not the rule, but he is not the exception either. Most coated cars will go two to four times longer between washes than they used to.

How to actually wash a coated car

Pressure-wash off the worst of the dirt and grit. Apply a good-quality car shampoo with a sprayer, agitate with a clean wash mitt or a soft traffic brush, and rinse off with the pressure washer. Dry with large clean microfibre towels. That is the whole routine.

One of our customers does it even simpler than that. He has a pressure washer on his driveway, and his routine after coating is to blast the dirt off and leave it at that -- no shampoo, no mitt, just water. The car still looks good. He was so pleased with how easy it all is that he has since paid for several of his family members to get their cars done too. That is the strongest endorsement we could ask for, and the lowest-fuss routine we have seen work.

Drying is the only bit that takes a touch of care. Your car is effectively coated in quartz, so it behaves a bit like glass -- water can grab and smear if your towels are not clean. Good-quality clean microfibre cloths work well. If your tap water is hard, a drying aid product or an inline hose filter to reduce water hardness makes a noticeable difference to how clean the car ends up.

What we do ourselves

In this video Gary cleans his own car (coated with Matrix Black over two years previously) using nothing more than the self-service pressure washer the workshop uses every day. He has it cleaned and dried in under ten minutes.

The people you would expect to have the strictest, fussiest, most product-laden routines are the ones who apply coatings for a living. In practice we are the opposite. Most of the workshop has a ceramic coating on our own cars, and the actual routine is: wash it when it needs it, no more than that, with the soap and the wash mitt that come through the workshop bay. No special potions. The point is not the ritual -- it is that a good coating makes a low-fuss routine produce a good result.

The bits that still need attention

Water and dirt do not leave every part of the car equally. Even on a coated car you will quickly learn the bits that need a touch more work at wash time: badges, the bottoms of windows, the seams around panels, lower panels and sills, and the wheel arches. These collect grime even when the rest of the car looks fine, and on a coated car they are sometimes the only bits that visibly need washing.

Bird droppings, tree sap and bonded contamination need dealing with promptly. The coating slows the damage, it does not stop it -- left baking in the sun for a fortnight, bird mess will still etch through to the clear coat. Catch them early and they rinse off easily. If the paint feels rough or beading has gone flat even on a clean car, that is contamination on top of the coating rather than failure of the coating -- see how to tell if your coating is working for the diagnosis. An iron remover and clay bar once or twice a year clears bonded particles without touching the coating itself.

What not to do

Most owners do not get their coating wrong on purpose -- they pick up a habit that quietly grinds in scratches over time. The two we see most often are grit in a dirty wash mitt or drying towel, and repeated hot-wax runs through the automatic car wash.

A bit of grit caught in the fabric and dragged across a panel leaves micro-scratches. It happens to all of us, even careful owners. The good news: it is usually polishable out. The fix is keeping mitts and towels clean and never picking up one that has been on the ground.

The automatic car wash issue is more subtle. Taking the car through on the top setting every Tuesday lunchtime does not damage the coating exactly, but it builds up a wax residue on top that masks how the coating looks and behaves. Wash the car when it actually needs washing and skip the wash'n'wax most of the time.

Beyond those two:

  • Skip the automated brush wash. The brushes are not coating-friendly; touchless is fine. Hand car washes vary -- pick one where you can see a careful pre-rinse routine, not a site with a gritty cloth going around six cars in a row.
  • Avoid harsh TFR and caustic cleaners as a routine choice. They will work, but repeated use shortens coating life. Save them for jobs that actually need them.
  • Do not polish a coated panel casually -- polishing removes the coating in the area you polish, and that panel will need re-coating to put protection back.
  • Respect the curing window on a new coating. Your installer will give you specifics, but in the first few days avoid harsh chemicals, traffic-film removers, quick detailers and topper sprays unless they are confirmed compatible with your specific product.

Whatever else you do, do not dry the car with a towel you dropped on the ground. It is genuinely better to leave the car wet than to grind grit into the paint.

Top-up sprays, quick detailers and ceramic toppers are all available and they all work, but they are optional. A good coating does not need a shelf full of potions to keep performing. If you find a top-up product you like, use it. If you find washing alone is enough, washing alone is enough. Eventually the coating does reach the end of its service life -- how often that point arrives depends on the grade and how the car is used.

Possibly the strongest endorsement we hear is from customers who get a coating on their own car, then come back a few months later asking us to do their mum's car as well. Five or six families have done that now. They had been so pleased with how easy the upkeep got that they thought their elderly parent deserved the same. The quality-of-life upgrade, given as a gift. We did not see that one coming when we started doing coatings, but it is now one of the patterns we recognise straight away.