What is dry wash?

Dry wash, or Waterless Wash, are a category of products which are usually sprayed on a car, coating the dirt, and lubricating it, so it can be safely wiped off without causing scratches to the car.

We mention it here because the product also acts as a wax coating, and because after failing miserably in the UK twenty years ago, this type of product is making a comeback in the form of quick-detailers.

These products arrived at our shores several decades ago from America, the land when they would traditionally wash their cars in paraffin because it is cheaper than water. They franchised waterless detailing services who, in the UK at least, often tried to sell the service as Eco-Friendly.

We cannot substantiate the claim that washing a car with a cocktail of chemicals is environmentally friendly. We also question the wisdom of trying to compete on the bases of being waterless, in a crowded market on an island surrounded by water, which is famous for its rain. It should be noted, that the Environmental Agency are rather keen on car washes and detailers using interceptors in the drains, and the EU regulations regarding recycling water and what exactly we put down the drains, are fairly strict and still in place post Brexit.

In addition to this, there is some controversy about just how safely you can remove dirt from a car without scratching. As a result, these products have not really taken off with professionals in the UK, but many of them are available on the retail market.

It is generally considered that these products can be used to safely clean your car under most circumstances. 

Needless to say, we will stick to using water. We include a note of this product here because it also provides a shine and serves as a protective coating. There are many different products on the market and how long they last or how much protection they offer will vary, but much like wash'n'wax or aqua-wax, they are really only intended to last you until the next wash. These products have generally been sold as a method of cleaning and not as a form of car paint protection.

What people really mean by dry wash

In car care, dry wash usually means cleaning the car with a spray product and microfibre towels, without using a hose and buckets. These products are often called waterless wash or waterless wash and wax. The idea is that the spray loosens light dirt, wraps it in lubricants and allows you to wipe it away without scratching.

It is a tidy up method for lightly soiled cars, not a replacement for a proper safe wash on a car that is genuinely dirty.

How dry wash products are supposed to work

A good dry wash product is built around lubrication and encapsulation rather than aggressive cleaning.

• The spray contains surfactants and lubricants that help loosen loose dust and traffic film while allowing the cloth to glide.
• Some formulas add waxes or polymers so you leave a slick, glossy layer behind as you wipe.
• The technique relies on lots of clean microfibres and very light pressure so dislodged particles are lifted into the towel, not dragged along the clear coat.

Used correctly on a lightly dusty car, it can work reasonably well. Used on a winter filthy car, it is almost guaranteed to cause marring.

When dry washing makes sense

There are situations where a dry wash is genuinely useful and practical.

• Cars that live indoors and only pick up a light layer of dust between outings.
• Show and display cars that need fingerprints and fresh dust removed just before an event.
• Flats, underground car parks or places with water restrictions where a hose and buckets are not an option.
• Lightly soiled, well protected cars where you want a quick spruce up rather than a full wash routine.

In these cases the key is that the dirt load is low. The more grit there is on the paint, the more you should lean towards a traditional pre wash and contact wash instead.

When dry washing is risky

The big downside of dry wash methods is that you are always working closer to the limit of what the paint can tolerate.

• On a daily driven car that has been through a wet, salty winter, there is simply too much abrasive grit to be wiped away safely.
• Trying to remove thick road film, dried mud or heavy fallout with a spray and towel will almost always create fine swirls and towel marks.
• If you do not use enough clean microfibres, you end up reusing the same dirty face and dragging contamination across the panel.
• Any lack of lubrication, such as using the wrong product or working on a hot, dry panel, increases the risk of scratching.

If you would not feel happy running your bare hand over the paint, dry washing is usually the wrong choice.

Dry wash versus rinseless wash and a full safe wash

It helps to separate three different ideas that are often muddled together.

• Dry or waterless wash – spray and wipe only, no running water. Best reserved for lightly dusty cars.
• Rinseless wash – a very slick wash solution in a bucket, with microfibres or mitts wrung out so there is minimal water used. Safer than dry wash because you are still flushing dirt into a solution.
• Traditional safe wash – pre wash, rinse and contact wash with plenty of clean water to float dirt away. Safest for heavily soiled daily drivers.

As the level of dirt goes up, you should move up that ladder towards methods that use more water and more rinsing, not less.

How dry wash fits with coatings and protection

If your car has wax, a polymer sealant or a ceramic coating, dry wash products can make light maintenance easier, but a bit of care is needed.

• Choose products that are clearly marked as safe for coated cars, especially if you have a professional ceramic layer.
• On a coated car, dirt often sits looser on the surface, so dry wash can be more viable for very light dust, but the same rules about low dirt load still apply.
• Avoid strong all-purpose cleaners marketed as dry wash if they strip or weaken your existing protection.
• If you find yourself needing to dry wash heavily and often, it is usually a sign you would be better off planning regular proper washes instead.

Protection helps, but it does not make dry washing risk-free. The clear coat underneath is still the same thickness.

Best practice if you choose to dry wash

If dry washing is sometimes unavoidable, a few habits can tilt the odds in your favour.

• Be honest about how dirty the car really is. If there is visible grit or mud, change plans and use a rinseless or full wash instead.
• Use plenty of clean, good quality microfibres and retire each face as it picks up dirt rather than trying to make one towel do the whole car.
• Work one small area at a time, spraying enough product to fully wet the surface, so the towel glides with minimal pressure.
• Use one towel for the initial wipe and a second, clean towel for gently buffing any residue.
• Build dry wash into a wider maintenance plan that includes occasional proper washes, decontamination and suitable long-term protection.

Handled this way, dry wash can be a useful emergency or in-between tool, rather than a rough shortcut that slowly dulls your car’s paintwork.

Written by Danny Argent. Last updated 01/12/2025 14:55