Pressure Washer Use
Quick answer: A pressure washer speeds up the pre-wash by removing grit before contact. Used correctly—right tip, distance and angle—it reduces wash marring. Used badly—too close, wrong nozzle, blasting edges—it can damage trims, films and force water past seals.
What it means
A pressure washer delivers water at higher pressure and flow through a fan nozzle to knock loose dirt before you touch the paint. Safe technique relies on a wide fan (25–40°), moderate pressure, steady movement, and keeping a sensible standoff from paint, badges, seals and film edges.
It should be noted that pressure washers found in coin-op bays at your local car wash are far safer than the type you can buy for home use. If you are running a pressure washer at home off a hosepipe, it only has a limited supply of water, and so makes up for this by using very high pressure. At your self-service car wash, they are more likely to be running from a two-inch water pipe, therefore you are getting a much higher volume of water, but at a lower pressure, better suited to cleaning cars.
Why it matters
- Lower marring risk: a thorough contactless rinse removes grit so your mitt isn’t grinding it into the clear coat.
- Product efficiency: improves the action of snow foam and TFR by wetting and thinning road film first.
- Material safety: wrong tip or distance can scuff soft plastics, lift loose lacquer or disturb PPF/vinyl edges.
- Water ingress control: direct jets into gaps can push water past seals and grommets, creating leaks or sensor faults.
Where you’ll see it
Home driveways, coin-op bays and professional wash bays as the first step before snow foam, TFR and shampoo.
Context
Car Paint Protection; Maintenance wash; Water-ingress risk management
Common mistakes
- Using a 0° pin jet or rotary “turbo” nozzle on paint and trims—reserved for hard surfaces only.
- Working too close or holding the jet on one spot—keep a steady standoff and keep the lance moving.
- Blasting seals, grommets, grills, sensors, camera modules and panel gaps head-on—spray across, not into, gaps.
- Aiming directly at PPF/vinyl edges, decals, loose lacquer or stone-chipped areas—approach obliquely or back off.
- Using strong TFR then not rinsing thoroughly—residue can mute hydrophobics and stain trims.
- Washing a convertible hood with a tight jet up close—use lower pressure, distance and a fabric-safe method.
- Spraying hot panels in sun or allowing product to dry on—cool panels, short dwell, thorough rinse.
Written by Danny Argent. Last updated 10/11/2025 17:14